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All about Cat Poisoning

You probably know many of the substances that are poisonous to cats: household cleaners, antifreeze, insecticides. There are a few more that may surprise you, like aspirin, acetaminophen, and ibuprofen, and certain household plants. If your kitty nibbles on a few leaves she may just have an upset stomach, but worst case scenario, it could be fatal. Lilies, for example, cause severe kidney damage and can cause death after just a few hours.

Other common poisonous plants include:

  1. Marijuana
  2. Sago Palm
  3. Tulip/Narcissus bulbs
  4. Azalea/Rhododendron
  5. Oleander
  6. Castor Bean
  7. Cyclamen
  8. Kalanchoe
  9. Yew
  10. Amaryllis
  11. Autumn Crocus
  12. Chrysanthemum
  13. English Ivy
  14. Peace Lily (AKA Mauna Loa Peace Lily)
  15. Pothos
  16. Schefflera

It’s important to know the signs of poisoning so you can take action right away. If your cat starts vomiting, drooling excessively, staggering, struggling with breathing, or losing consciousness, call your veterinarian. He’ll want a thorough description of what your cat ate as well as what symptoms you noticed. If you can’t get in touch with your vet, call the National Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435, which is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. You’ll have to pay $60 on your credit card as a consultation fee. Be prepared to share the species, breed, age, sex, weight, symptoms, and information about the poison ingested.

To be safe you should have a first-aid kit handy:

  • A bottle of hydrogen peroxide, 3 percent USP to induce vomiting
  • Turkey baster, bulb syringe or large medicine syringe to administer peroxide
  • Saline eye solution
  • Artificial tear gel to lubricate eyes after flushing
  • Mild grease-cutting dishwashing liquid for bathing an animal after skin contamination

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How to Remove Ticks from Your Home or from Your Pet

If you found a tick on your cat or dog, you need to take action right away to remove the tick and eggs from your house. The longer they’re around, the more eggs they’ll lay—meaning there’s a greater chance they’ll attach to you of your family members.

In case you’re unfamiliar, here’s how ticks operate: these parasites stick their heads into skin and feed on the blood, growing larger with every drop. When the tick reaches a certain size, it uses the fur or hair to lay eggs in. Both people and pets can get Lyme disease so it’s crucial to prevent ticks from multiplying.

1. After you find a tick on your pet, pull it out carefully by the head with fine-pointed tweezers (while wearing latex gloves).

Be careful not to squeeze the tick’s body, as this can inject more potential pathogens into you or your pet.

2. The next step is to thoroughly clean every area your dog or cat’s laid.

Use your vacuum’s crevice tool to get in the corners and cracks of furniture. You may even want to use a specialized chemical cleaner to be sure all the eggs are gone. Many pet stores sell medicated sprays and shampoos you can apply to kill eggs on your pet. If you have an outdoor cat or dog, you should also trim the grass to get rid of any ticks out there.

Your best bet is to be far more thorough than you deem necessary when you removing ticks from your home. Only then can you be certain your family and pets will stay healthy.

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How to Tell if Your Cat’s Allergic to Her Food

Food allergies are quite common among cats—in fact, they account for ten percent of all feline allergies. They can manifest as young as five months old, or they may take years to develop. Odds are your cat won’t purr her way up to you at the dinner table, and candidly tell you her food is making her sick. Not a problem!

If your cat’s allergic to her food, the signs will be pretty clear. You’ll notice any or all of the following:

  • Scabs around her face and neck
  • Flaky or dry skin
  • Excessive scratching
  • Chewing on her limbs
  • Hair loss (oozing bald patches)
  • Changed toilet habits

One way to determine if food allergies are to blame is to switch her to a hypoallergenic diet—incorporating proteins and carbohydrates that are new to her—for twelve weeks to see if the symptoms clear up. Avoid dairy, fish, and beef, as they account for 80 percent of all food allergies—and be sure not to feed her anything from the table. After that, go back to the old food for a week or two. If they come back, you’ll know for sure that her diet is the problem. If you’re in doubt, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian. He may perform tests to be sure there isn’t another problem, like Sarcoptic mange and inhalant allergy, also known as atopy.

Treatment for food allergies is quite straight-forward: avoid the offending agent, and stick to a diet that’s balanced with nutrients, vitamins, and minerals.

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Signs and Treatment for Cat Asthma

Have you noticed your cat coughing, wheezing, or having dry heaves, almost like she can’t catch her breath? Feline asthma just might be the culprit—especially if you cat is overweight—and it could fatal if left untreated. Much like human asthma, the condition causes the lungs to constrict and the air passages to go into spasms, making it hard to breathe. Allergens, dust mites, pollen, tobacco smoke, and airborne irritants are all potential causes.

If you suspect your cat has asthma, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian. He will perform a chest X-ray to see if her lungs are over-inflated and a brochoscopy to rule out other respiratory problems; and then prescribe oral or inhalant medication to treat the symptoms. In the meantime, there are a few things you can do at home to keep cat asthma at bay:

  • Keep your cat indoors when outdoor hay fever alerts are high.
  • Use a humidifier to keep moisture in the air. Dry air can exacerbate asthma symptoms.
  • If you smoke cigarettes, take the habit outside.
  • Maintain a consistent cleaning schedule to keep dust mites out of your home.
  • Stop using any new products—laundry detergent of cleaners—that may have caused the asthma symptoms.
  • Switch to dust-free litter.

Even though these changes will help prevent attacks, it’s crucial to properly diagnose and treat feline asthma to prevent long-term damage to your cat’s airways. If you don’t yet have pet insurance, this will be seen as a pre-existing condition and therefore will not be covered—so you may want to purchase a policy before you visit your veterinarian.

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Should You Train Cats like Dogs?

Why don’t we train cats the way we train dogs? The answer is—we do! Dr. Melissa Bain of the Companion Animal Behavior Program at University of California Davis’ veterinary program explains there are actually kitten kindergarten classes that use “positive training.”

Dr. Bain says most people don’t train their cats because they don’t go out in public like dogs, meaning there’s no threat of them attacking a stranger. Still cats can be aggressive toward their owners, and that’s the number one reason people bring them to shelters. She recommends reinforcing good behavior using a clicker—a little plastic gadget that makes a noise when you press it. Basically whenever you see a positive behavior you click and hand over a treat. Your cat will then associate the preceding action with reward. This also enriches your relationship with kitty because it encourages more interaction and communication.

Cat training is so big there’s even a huge annual event dedicated to the cause. The weekend of October 18th 41 breeds of cats competed in the sixth annual CFA-IAMS Cat Championship at Madison Square Garden in New York City. Karen Thomas, head trainer with IAMS, explains that training can help with daily tasks, like brushing teeth and trimming toe nails. Of course the championship featured more than just sitting and rolling over. Events included basketball and tightrope walking.

You likely don’t need to teach Fluffy human sports, but maybe you could benefit from picking up a clicker.

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Kitten Socialization: Preventing Irrational Fear in Cats

You hate seeing your kitty frightened with dilated pupils and hair standing on end whenever people come over. You’re probably not too keen on her emotional urination or aggressive behavior, either. Teaching her to be a social animal will prevent many common cat fears—like anxiety around strangers or other animals, or fear of going outside in the pet carrier. Since cats aren’t pack animals like dogs, this will take some effort.

The ideal time to begin socializing your kitten is between 3–9 months. However, there are a few things you should consider even earlier than that.

Between 2–7 weeks, kittens go into a “sensitive period” when they learn what to be afraid of. This is actually a good thing because it teaches her to protect herself against actual danger. For example, loud noises should instill fear—this way, she’ll think twice before running into oncoming traffic. During this time you should offer a warm, nurturing environment, free from hostility.  Provide human contact without negative consequences, like punishment or isolation. Also, introduce her to other cats and animals, making sure she doesn’t have a bad experience with them.

This is just the beginning to creating a confident, friendly, not timid or irritable cat.

The first part of socialization involves teaching her to be touched.

  • Play with your kitten for at least two hours a day. Hold and pet her, showing her how to be gentle.
  • If she plays nicely, praise her and give her a treat. If she scratches or bites, say “no”, hand her a toy, and stop playing.
  • In time, take it to the next level—pet her paws, tail, and ears. This way, she’ll learn to tolerate touching in those places, where groomers and vets will need to handle her (and children may, as well).
  • When you touch her ears, rub the insides and stroke different parts. This will help you later when you want to clean your cat’s ears!

Next, train her to deal with strangers. When people come over:

  • Let her come out when she’s ready.
  • If it takes a while, offer a treat to entice her.
  • Once she comes out, encourage your guests to play with her gently. If your kitten plays nicely or seems to be enjoying herself give her a treat, like a small amount of catnip.

Lastly, expose her to new situations and things.

  • Bring her on errands.
  • Take her for walks on a leash (really!)
  • Provide her an ample supply of toys.
  • Travel with her in a comfortable crate or carrier. Put bedding in there so it’s more appealing. Her ability to enter a crate on demand will prove critical in a crisis situation, like a fire.
  • Allow her to hear every-day noises. Just because she’s a baby that doesn’t mean you can’t listen to music at a regular volume or blow dry your hair.

If you train your kitty to accept touching, relax around others, and handle new situations, you’ll help her develop without forming irrational phobias.  Don’t be afraid to handle her and take her outside. If you don’t have fear she likely won’t either!

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How to Tell If Your Cat Is Dying

Losing a pet can be devastating, especially if you haven’t had any time to prepare yourself for the loss. Understanding the signs might make it easier; and at the very least will allow you to make your pet’s last moments peaceful and comfortable. Cat dying symptoms include:

Decreased body temperature. Her body temperature will cool as her heart slows its beats. As a result, she may lose feelings in her limbs and have difficulty to moving.

Not moving from one spot. Cats often find one resting area, and wait out their symptoms there. It may take several hours or days for her to pass; she will likely spend most of it drifting in and out of sleep.

Disorientation. You may notice her staring off into the distance, oblivious to what’s going on around her. Some cats don’t even recognize their owners when they’re dying. Be sure to speak slowly and softly as not to startle her.

Labored breathing. Your cat’s breathing may become rapid and shallow, or it will become slow and heavy. Toward the end, you’ll notice greater lapses between breaths—maybe even a minute apart.

Impaired vision. Cats often lose their sight before dying. Rest assured they generally maintain their hearing—your soothing words will be heard.

Reluctance to eat or drink. As your cat’s body starts shutting down, she will gradually stop eating and drinking, meaning she’ll release less urine and feces. Also, the urine will take on a darker color.

It’s never easy to say goodbye to your pet, especially if she dies without warning. Caring for her in her final moments will help ease her transition and hopefully provide some closure for you.

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How to Make Your Outdoor Cat an Indoor Cat

Indoor cats are safer than outdoor ones; that’s just common sense.

Risks for outdoor cats include parasites, heartworm, leukemia, feline immunodeficiency virus (AIDS for cats), skin cancer, hanging or choking, and toxoplasmosis—not to mention the potential for death by car accident.


If your kitty is used to having the lay of the land, you have your work cut out for you, but you can make the transition. Cats are creatures of habit, so don’t expect her to forsake the outdoors cold-turkey. You’ll need to slowly create a new routine by bringing her in for short periods of time.

Offer items to keep her entertained inside—like toys, a cat condo, and a scratching post.

Devote as much time as possible to playing with her.

This will be the main attraction, since she’s likely been isolated in her open-air adventures. If you can get her a feline playmate, that’s even better!


Providing a safe outdoor enclosure will help her during the adjustment period.

This way, she’ll still see the sunlight and feel less confined. You can build your own unit by securing chicken wire to a simple wooden frame. Add shelves, tires, and boxes for climbing and lounging, and make sure to place it in a shaded area to offer respite from the heat. Always supervise your cat when she’s in the enclosure to make sure she doesn’t get out and roam.


If you can’t provide safe outdoor space, you may want to walk her on a leash—really!

It isn’t just for dogs. She probably won’t scamper up to you with the leash lodged between her teeth, but in time she’ll get used to using it. And she’ll grow accustomed to her new lifestyle as it becomes more fun and familiar.

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Your Kitten’s First Year: after Six Months

By six months, your kitten will have grown to be three-quarters of his adult size, meaning his major growth spurt is behind him. In the next six months he’ll grow to full size. During this time, continue what you’ve been doing—attending to his nutritional needs, ensuring his social development, and maintaining his overall health. Your cat will go through many changes in the next several months, and his behavior, appearance, and eating habits will all indicate how well he’s growing up.

Here’s what you can expect throughout the rest of the year:

Months 7–9
Your kitten will develop a new coat in his seventh month. Brush him often to get rid of the hair he sheds. This will be both a cornerstone of your grooming routine and a bonding experience for you and your kitty. By the eight month, your cat’s adult teeth will be in place, so you should introduce teeth-cleaning to the routine, as well.

Month 10–11
He’s just a few months shy of adulthood now. At 10 months, you may want to introduce adult food into his diet. You should still feed him primarily kitten food since he needs the nutrients it provides, but it wouldn’t hurt to start weaning him off it. When he approaches his eleventh month, you can increase the percentage of adult food.

Check his vaccination records and make sure they’re up to date. After his first year, he’ll only need to be checked once annually.

Month 12
By his twelfth month, your kitten will have reached his full size. Now he’ll be ready for an all-adult-food diet, with feedings reduced to once a day. You can keep him at two feedings a day if you’d like by splitting the serving in half.

Year One
Congratulations! You’ve done an amazing job raising your kitten to maturity! From here on out be mindful of his health and play with him whenever you can. He may be an adult now but he’ll always be your kitty—and he’ll always want your attention and affection.

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Your Kitten’s First Year: Month Six Spay Time

Your kitten’s growing quickly and gaining more confidence by the day. Assuming you adopted him after his second month, he should be well-adjusted to his new environment the end of month three. Of course, he’ll still discover new things daily. Your continuing job as parent and protector is to ensure his environment remains safe.

Month 4:

During the fourth month—when your kitten’s still within his major stage of socialization—his senses will develop fully and his eyes will change to their permanent color.

He’ll begin to lose his baby teeth as his adult teeth start pushing through. To help with the soreness, give him a makeshift chew toy, like a drinking straw or a cold washcloth that’s been wrung out and placed in the freezer.

At this point, you should feed your kitten at least three times daily, giving him dry food to free-feed on in between meals. Before the end of the month, schedule a follow-up appointment with the vet, including a second de-worming.

Month 5:

Your kitten will continue teething in month five, though he’ll probably already have his new incisors.

Don’t be surprised if he takes to nibbling on your finger. This gives you an opportunity to massage his gums with a natural reliever or cold gauze. Most of his adult teeth will be in place by the eighth month, however, you can still expect more beyond the first year.

In month five, you may want to purchase a scratching post to keep your couch, curtains, and carpet safe from his new claws. When you visit your vet, ask how to properly clip your kitten’s nails. It can be nerve-wracking at first, but you’ll get the hang of it! As far as nutrition goes, don’t change a thing until you’re past the six-month milestone—which is just around the corner.

Month 6:

You’re at the six-month milestone—already half-way through the first year! It’s been an amazing few months and there’s much more to look forward to. At this point, your kitten will be long and lean at three-quarters his adult size—far from the little fur ball you once knew. Think of this as his teen phase. That said you should stick with the kitten formula, although you can reduce the feedings to twice daily, with dry food to nibble on in between meals.

Since your kitten will be well into puberty, you should talk to your vet about having him fixed during your sixth-month visit.

Some experts even recommend spaying or neutering around four months given the overpopulation of dogs and cats around the world. Preventing unwanted pregnancy ensures your cat’s offspring won’t be killed in an animal shelter one day. According to the Humane Society of the United States, over 3 million cats and dogs are euthanized in shelters every year.

If you’re unsure about the procedure, keep in mind the benefits well beyond population control. Studies have shown neutered/spayed pets are calmer and more content because the urge to reproduce is eliminated.

Since they won’t feel the need to seek out a mate, they’ll be less apt to leave home and put themselves in harm’s way. Neutering your male cat can also control inappropriate urination. In females, spaying decreases the incidences of breast cancer. Overall, you’ll find spaying or neutering to enhance your pet’s life and increase his lifespan, too.

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How to Clean Your Cat’s Ears

Cats’ ear canals are longer than ours, making them more susceptible to dirt and excess wax. Cleaning them is an essential part of grooming, and it can also prevent mites—tiny, crab-like parasites. You just need to be careful not to rupture the ear drum or cause lacerations inside the canal.


You’ll need:

  • Olive oil, hydrogen peroxide, or store-bought ear cleaner
  • Cotton balls
  • An eye-dropper
  • A container for water

Then:

  • Warm the ear-cleaning agent by placing it in a warm pan of water. You want it to be at body temperature.
  • Place your cat on a table or counter and wrap her in a thick towel for restraint; leave just her head exposed. This will both keep her in place and prevent scratching.
  • Grip the top of the ear and gently turn the flap inside. If you see any type of pus or discharge, you should take your cat to the vet instead of attempting to clean it out.
  • Clean the earlobe using a moist cotton ball. Do not use a Q-Tip! This can be very dangerous.
  • Put a drop of your cleaning solution into the opening of the ear canal. Massage the base of the ear for 20–45 seconds to work the liquid around.
  • Allow you cat a little time to shake her head; this will work the solution in further. After a few minutes, use cotton balls to wipe away oil and dirt.
  • Give her lots of praise and a treat! This will help her associate the act with reward instead of discomfort.

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Should You Declaw Your Kitten

In Europe declawing isn’t an option because it’s been outlawed. Here in US pet owners have a decision to make. Many advocates believe it’s inhumane, but it may be tempting when kitty starts scratching at your couch, your clothes, or even your children.

First you need to understand exactly what declawing entails. It’s not just filing down your kitten’s nails. She’ll actually do that for herself by scratching (hopefully a post you’ve provided!) Declawing is more like amputation since it removes the last joint on your cat’s paws. It’s pretty much like cutting off your fingers down to the knuckle The procedure is so controversial it inspired activists to form The Paw Project—a group that has attempted to outlaw declawing in the US.

Now consider the consequences:

Declawing is painful. Just one amputation is a lot to handle—imagine doing it ten times. During recovery your kitten will still need to walk around, jump, and use the litter box meaning she’ll be in agony.

Declawed cats can’t groom themselves properly. Cats use their claws to reach parts of their neck, head, and mouth.

Without claws cats can’t defend themselves. Even if she doesn’t come up against a predator often, she may need to protect herself from a stray dog if she somehow gets outside. Also, after declawing she’ll have difficulty jumping—which means you’re taking away some of her most important instincts as a cat!

A botched operation can cause serious infections or deformation. Her claws might even grow back—which means you wasted money and hurt her for nothing.

Without claws she can’t mark her territory—which is important for animals. You’re probably thinking you’d rather she didn’t “mark” her territory with scratches. It’s more than that since cats’ paws have scent glands.

Declawed cats may become biters. If she can’t scratch when she feels threatened she may bite instead—and you could be the victim. As we mentioned in a previous post about feline aggression, cats sometimes attack when they’re being pet because the sensation suddenly becomes annoying.

Declawing can create joint problems. She will walk differently when she’s missing the first joint of her toes, which can affect the joints in her legs.

At the end of the day it’s your choice to make. Although most advocates recommend against declawing for all the reasons above, you have the legal right to declaw your kitten once she’s older than 3–4 months. There are three ways to do the procedure:

  1. The Resco Clipper Method Your vet will use a sterile nail trimmer to cut through the bone of the third digit of the toe. He’ll use either a suture material or surgical glue to close the incision.
  2. The Disarticulation Method This one is a little more complicated. Your vet will use forceps and a scalpel blade to disconnect all the ligaments that hold the third bone in place and remove the bone entirely.
  3. The Laser Method Removing the claw with a laser minimizes bleeding and pain, however this procedure is quite expensive. It’s also dangerous since an inexperienced vet could burn the tissue.

What to Expect after Surgery

  • All procedures require at least one night in the hospital—possibly two.
  • During the first few days at home you may seem some blood coming from her toes. Light spotting is normal.
  • You should use shredded paper or pelleted recycled newspaper litter for 10 days after surgery so she won’t get any pellets caught in the tiny incisions.
  • You’ll likely need pain medication to help her deal with the discomfort.

If you decided against declawing you don’t need to admit defeat to her claws. Check out How to Teach Your Cat Not to Scratch Furniture for an alternative solution.

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Cats and Urine Marking

Cats don’t have a ton in common with dogs, but they’re both territorial animals, meaning they like to mark their area. Sometimes cats mark with their scent by rubbing up against things. Not a problem, right? Unfortunately it’s not always that simple. Oftentimes urine is the marker. If you do notice urine outside the litter box, first you have to rule out accidental soiling.

Accidental Soiling:

Looks like regular urinating. When a cat eliminates by accident, it looks like she is sitting with her rear legs pushed out slightly.

Can happen for medical reasons. Sometimes cats get Feline Urological Syndrome, an inflammation of the urinary tract and bladder that can cause accidents. Since Diabetes, hyperthyroidism, and kidney disease increase thirst, these illnesses could also be the problem.

Can have to do with the litter box. If you don’t clean the box frequently your cat may want to avoid it. Detergents, chemicals, or scented litter may also encourage her to seek another place to eliminate. If you know cleanliness and odors aren’t the issue, think about the location you’ve chosen. You should pick a well-lit spot that doesn’t see a ton of foot traffic. Also avoid carpets; if your cat misses the box the smell will sink in, which encourages more accidents.

Can involve feces. Cats don’t usually mark their territory this way. Lower intestinal problems might be to blame—like parasites and food allergies.

Urine Spraying:

Happens standing or squatting. Your cat will back up to a vertical surface—likely a door or window—lift her tail, and forcefully spray a small amount. She may also choose an object she associates with a person or animal who instills anger, frustration, stress, or fear.

Is common in pets that aren’t spayed or neutered. Most often spraying stems to sexuality. Toms spray before they’re going to mate and queens do this to attract males.

Has various causes: desire for attention, a reaction to change, a response to a new pet or person, or a result of interacting with an outdoor cat who then walks by the window (threatening her territory).

How to Handle Spraying:

* Spay or your neuter your cat if you haven’t already.

* Visit your vet to rule out medical problems.

* Block the windows so she won’t feel threatened by outside cats, or install a sprinkler to discourage feline visitors.

* Clean accidents thoroughly so she’ll be less likely to return to the spot. Avoid ammonia-based products which smell like urine. This defeats the purpose!

* Reestablish marking spots as feeding areas; animals generally won’t urinate where they eat.

* Move the items she likes to mark or cover them with Saran wrap.

* Hang aluminum foil in the areas she sprays. When she approaches it the foil will make noise—and if she urinates, it will spray back on to her.

* Help her warm up to new people in your house by having the person feed, groom, and play with her.

* Introduce new cats slowly over time by keeping them in separate spaces and gradually increasing their time together.

* Make sure the litter box is size-appropriate, and get one for each cat you have.

* Modify the behavior when you see it by making a loud noise or spraying a water pistol.

* Avoid the urge to punish your cat. Fear could aggravate the problem.

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How to Remove Ticks from Cats

True or false: If you see a tick on your cat you should cover it with Vaseline to suffocate and kill the parasite.

The answer is false! This could actually make the situation much worse, as it could coax the tick to regurgitate toxins into your cat’s tissues—putting her at risk for Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Lyme disease, Colorado Tick Fever, and tularemia.

Instead of following this old-wives tale, grab a pair of latex gloves, sharp tweezers, isopropyl alcohol, antiseptic ointment, and hydrocortisone spray.

You may want a friend to help you hold your cat so she won’t wriggle away. Use the tweezers to grab the tick at the head, right where it entered the cat’s body. If you grab it by the body instead, you risk leaving some of the little sucker in there. Pull it outward without twisting or jerking.

Do not toss the tick on the ground and step on it like any other bug. You don’t want to risk infesting your home. Instead, drop it in a bit of alcohol to kill it.

Apply disinfectant around the bite wound and spray with hydrocortisone spray to help ease irritation and itching. Some of the tick’s toxic saliva will remain inside the wound, so you should continue applying hydrocortisone for a few days.

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Worming Your Kitten

Most kittens are born with intestinal worms—parasites that can cause illness or even death. Over-the-counter remedies are generally ineffective, so you’ll need to visit the vet for worming every three weeks between 6 and 16 weeks of age. After that, you can reduce worming to once every three months. Of course if you notice worm-like symptoms at any time you should visit your vet immediately.

In this post, we’ll explore the different types of worms that infest cats, their symptoms, diagnosis, treatment, and a few tips for worm prevention.

What are the types of worms that infest cats?

  • Tapeworms Cats get tapeworms by eating infected fleas, often during grooming. They’re made of small flat segments, each the size of a grain of rice. Although you’ll generally only see single segments in your kitten’s feces around the tail or bottom, an entire tapeworm can have 90 segments, making it about 6 inches in size.
  • Hookworms Cats often give hookworms to their unborn kittens or pass them through breast milk. Other causes include: eating or drinking contaminated food or water, or eating hookworm eggs after another cat passes them in his stool. They are tiny and have teeth-like mouth parts that suck blood from the intestinal wall.
  • Roundworms This is the most common source of worms in kittens, usually passed through mother’s milk or by eggs in the environment. Roundworms are long and thin, like spaghetti noodles. A severe infestation can lead to death as the worm blocks the intestines.
  • Heartworm When a mosquito bites an infected animal and ingests some of the worm’s larvae, it then passes it to the next animal it bites. The symptoms for Heartworm Disease vary from other worm infestations—they include coughing, vomiting, and asthma-like symptoms. The mortality rate is 50 percent because treatment is difficult and dangerous. Some veterinarians recommend monthly preventative tablets.

What are the symptoms of worms?

  • A pot-bellied appearance
  • Licking the anus area
  • Worm segments around the anus and in stool
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea, sometimes bloody
  • Weight loss/loss of appetite
  • Dull coat
  • Lethargy
  • Stunted growth

How are worms diagnosed?

Your veterinarian will look for worms (not including heartworm) in your kitten’s stool sample. He’ll mix it with a solution that makes the eggs more visible. Different worms require different medications because they all respond differently to treatment.

How can you protect your kitten from worms?

  • Keep your cat away from dirt and soil, as worm eggs can live in the environment for a long time
  • Make sure your kitten doesn’t catch rodents or birds, which are commonly infested
  • Clean your kitten’s bedding and feeding bowls regularly
  • Keep your kitten away from stray cats until they are checked for worms
  • Keep your kitten flea-free
  • Don’t leave stool sitting around your yard or in your kitten’s litter tray

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